We crossed the bridge (first built in the 6th century) to the island in the Tiber River on our way to the other side, the area called Trastevere. Originally Etruscan, more recently working class, and nowadays gentrified, the Trastevere has narrow streets and generally small buildings. Besides wandering about, we visited two churches: St. Cecilia and St. Maria in Trastevere. St. Cecilia had the gift for hanging on. An early Roman Christian martyr, in the year 230 she was first put in her own caldarium (hot bath) to boil to death, but didn't. Then she was sentenced to have her head cut off, but the executioner was so inept that it took 3 days for Cecilia to die. In 1599 her grave was opened, and a sculptor who was present at her disinterment carved her. Cecilia looks really good for a twice-martyred 1,370 year old corpse.
We were drawn to St. Cecilia and St. Mary in Trastevere because of their extraordinary mosaics. (We've been looking out for mosaics throughout Rome.) Also, we've been seeking early art, including frescoes. So, we knocked on the door of the convent at St. Cecelia's and were taken to some truly beautiful frescoes in the nun's private chapel. But we weren't allowed to take pics. Sorry.
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