Wednesday, June 30, 2010
Day 21 - As Far West As We Can Go
Well, we've gone as far as possible. Maynard posed by the sign showing the most westerly highway point in North America. Also, if you check out a map, you'll see that at the end of Homer, AK, is a teeny, tiny, natural causeway. We made it out there. That leaves Kodiak Island and the Aleutians for another trip -- a trip I would very much love to make.
Day 20 - Seward and Kenai
Today we visited the Kenai Fjords in Seward; up until 1998 folks could touch the Exit Glacier (great name, huh? it is melting into Resurrection River, if you like an Existential chuckle), but it has receded further and is currently too dangerous to approach within two yards or so. Maynard tried to capture the blue ice of the glacier in this pic. We continued to the city of Kenai which isn't as impressive as I'd hoped; fortunately, some miles out of the way (in an RV turnaround), we found Kenai Brewery. While the owner gave Maynard tastings of his different brews, the local moose mom came by with her calf. That, a good Greek restaurant, and a bald eagle nesting in a tree near our cabin have cheered Maynard immensely.
Tuesday, June 29, 2010
Day 19 - Top of Kenai Peninsula
Day 16 - Camping in Denali
Friday, June 25, 2010
Note in the AM of Day 16
We're off to Denali National Park this morning! Three nights of camping and two shuttle bus trips into the interior (you can't drive far into the park).
We've probably used up all our good weather points; the forecast is for rain today, less rain tomorrow, and clouds the next day. So, we have little chance to seeing much of Mt. McKinley, but we have great chances of seeing cool scenes and animals and testing our DEET (rumor has it that mosquitoes are the Alaska state bird).
I'm not sure when we'll be near an internet connection again; probably, we'll have one on the night of Monday, June 28th.
The receptionist at this motel glanced at my copy of Little Dorritt yesterday; she says it's good, but Our Mutual Friend is her favorite. Her brother votes for Hard Times. Now I need to read Our Mutual Friend! Just love those out of blue literary conversations.
Thursday, June 24, 2010
Day 15 - Tok to Fairbanks
We read in The Milepost yesterday that we should see elk and bison. We saw the skat for each but no further signs. Today we started by meeting two lady moose, then later we came across this bull. A less clear photo than the one I've posted shows one of the ladies hiding behind a tree. Something about a moose -- a single tree just doesn't make her invisible!
The other picture shows several of the peaks of the Alaska Range. They look almost marshmallowy on top. The man in the foreground had been clearly tall grass with a sickle. His movements were smooth, steady, and beautiful; he made his job look easy.
Tonight we're in Fairbanks. I'll try to get a photo of the most exotic thing I saw today so I can post it later.
Day 14 - Skagway to Tok
Most people take the White Pass & Yukon train when they visit Skagway; Maynard preferred to chase it. Then we continued up, briefly into BC, and then to the Yukon. At Whitehorse we drove west towards Alaska and ended the day in Tok. Much of the roadbed is on permafrost, so the road keeps caving in. The ride resembled a very old wooden rollercoaster in bad condition. We were surprised at how difficult it was to get a motel room -- the locals tell me simply that it's summer.
Day 13 - A Cessna 6-passenger is a small plane
We flew from Gustavos (Glacier Bay National Park) to Juneau in a teeny tiny plane. It was cool to travel 1500 feet above the bays, straits, and islands. From Juneau we caught the ferry to Skagway. I've been reading Klondike Fever by Pierre Breton; surprisingly, the town is pretty historically accurate to the heady goldrush days. The big rush nowadays is cruise ships.
By the way, Sidney Carton sacrificed himself back in British Columbia and since then I've read (to myself) The Eyre Affair by Jasper Fforde. Don't bother. We found a bookstore in Juneau with a history of the King James Bible which I'm eager to read after I finish the Klondike book and read at least the first 200 pages of Little Dorrit. (Maynard wants to listen to that novel next; he's read the beginning recently, but I haven't read it since college.)
Day 12 EXTRA -- The Bear
We stopped along an island to drop off some kayakers. A local didn't approve of our arrival. He made his dissatisfaction clear as he slowly moved through berry bushes and towards another beach. We dropped off the kayakers anyway -- though they immediately readied themselves to clear away from that island fast.
Monday, June 21, 2010
Day 12 - Glacier Bay National Park
Reminiscing travelers often tick off the number of sights they've encountered in order to prove that a place is memorable. Yet, we all know that it's the whole experience that matters, the conglomeration of everything. Today's conglomeration, for instance, was more than seeing whales, sea otters, tufted puffins, seals, black bears, mountain goats, terns, bald eagles, a huge brown bear, and glaciers really close up. Our boat approached the Margery glacier very closely, and we waited. Do you know why birds nest in glaciers? We also saw sea lions basking on an iceberg and a bald eagle perched on another iceberg close to the glacier. Guess why!
Day 11 - Ferry to Juneau II
We arrived in Juneau late morning and headed up to the Mendenhall Glacier. Strangely shaped icebergs float below the glacier. Cruise ships dock alongside the renovated historic district where everyone is selling something, from zillions of gem shops to Juneau Gelato. We sat outside and smashed a Dungeness crab for lunch. Then we drove up to the ruins of a gold mine. Our small ferry to Glacier Bay was harder to find than the platform for Harry Potter's train; however, once located, we watched a family of bald eagles who owned a tree above the ferry slip and chatted with fellow travelers.
Day 10 -Prince Rupert to Juneau
On a clear, hot day we rode the ferry north, watching wooded vistas backed by huge mountains usually boasting snowfields and sometimes glaciers. Sunburns! The Alaska Marine Highway (the ferry) is the public transportation for southeastern Alaska. This run's clientele primarily consisted of locals returning to their island homes, fishermen off to win glory with rods, and a loony bunch of middle-aged German ladies out to have a good time. Around 11PM, we started through the Wrangle Narrows, only half again as wide as our boat and sometimes only 4 feet deeper than the boat's draft.
Friday, June 18, 2010
Day 9 - Totem Poles, Mountains, & Improved Prince Rupert
'Ksan people have collected 15 totem poles in their village near Hazelton. The carved figures seem to emerge from the wood. See the peaks behind? We saw different sorts of woods, fields, and plains today, usually with Wordsworthian peaks overshadowing and following us. Prince Rupert -- which I'd dreaded because of its dreary appearance & our awful motel back in 2001 -- has closed the papermill and has brightened up. We watched 7 bald eagles and a seal check out possible dinner as fishermen cleaned their day's catch. Tomorrow we catch an overnight ferry.
Thursday, June 17, 2010
Day 8 - Ooops! That's not the shortcut . . .
We thought we were taking the shortcut that was advertised in Maynard's Milepost Guide, but we ended up on a rutted dirt road on top of the world, lacing through grand electrical trunk lines and anticipating a log truck at every turn. Ah well, we survived, as did two marmots which dashed in front of us at different times in the day. We are now firmly facing the last section before Prince Rupert, one of the true dives of the universe AND the port from which we'll catch the ferry on Saturday.
Wednesday, June 16, 2010
Day 7 - Where's Goldilocks?
The twisting route 3 took us west through BC today, then from Vancouver we headed north on the Sea to Sky Highway. We picnicked along the straits where divers explore wrecks which have been conveniently dropped in the water for that purpose. Then, we were stunned by the beauty of the glaciers up through and beyond the Whistler area. The sights were so spectacular that a motorcyclist ran off the road into a muddy ditch; we joined a group of helpers who eventually dragged him and cycle out. Here is the third bear we saw today; we were then immediately slowed by a school bus. So exotic, so mundane. We're spending the night in Lilliout (sp?).
Tuesday, June 15, 2010
Day 6 - Into Canada!
In spring, goats like to nest near a salt lick. These goats were hanging out at a saltlick near the Izaak Walton Inn.
Today we traveled winding roads through mountain passes in southern BC. The sharpness of the slopes was astounding. A cheery lady at a supermarket in Creston recognized CT only as the home of the Hartford Whalers. She wore a Calgary Flames pin. Other clerks razzed her for not letting go to the hockey season.
Today we traveled winding roads through mountain passes in southern BC. The sharpness of the slopes was astounding. A cheery lady at a supermarket in Creston recognized CT only as the home of the Hartford Whalers. She wore a Calgary Flames pin. Other clerks razzed her for not letting go to the hockey season.
We've ended the day eating Russian take out in Great Falls, once the purported home of the largest copper smelter in the English empire.
Monday, June 14, 2010
Day 5 Entering the Mountains
After chatting with locals of Stanford, MT, over breakfast, we headed west again. One of my favorite memories about traveling west is seeing the mountains emerge on the horizon.
Arriving at Glacier National Park, we discovered that the route across doesn't open until June 18th; there's still snow blocking the road.
This inn is in the style of the Great Northern Railway with tons of pictures and memorabilia. Did I mention that the railroad itself runs directly behind the hotel? Amtrak comes by at 7:18 tonight and 8:30 am tomorrow with many freights in between.
Day 4 Badlands to camping by a snowpatch
Drove through the Theodore Roosevelt National Park, which is an up close view of the badlands: mushroom-sculptured rocks, veins of coal contrasting to ochre and grey veins, strange formations.
Ended up in a NFS campground on a far out spot in western MT. Surrounded by mountain domes, the campground includes a noisy creek and beautiful sites.
Saturday, June 12, 2010
Day 3 -
Minneapolis-St.Paul is huge, and it seems as if the huge farms of green fields will go on forever. The farmsteads consist of a copse of trees above which a silo towers. They seem medieval.
Then, part way through North Dakota, the topography changed to rolling, dry, treeless uplands. We're in ranchland instead of farmland.
The Badlands are here.
On a more dramatic front, Charles Darnay has been released from prison in Tale of Two Cities.
Now we're watching a c-span moot court argument on Henry IV's actions in Shakespeare's play.
Friday, June 11, 2010
Day 2 - Ohio to Wisconsin
The Illinois RR museum in Union turned out to be tons of fun. There are hundreds to engines and other sorts of rolling stock.
We ended up the day at Mauston, WI, just past the Dells. Dinner was walleye in the tiny town of Necesha (sp?).
Maynard's day ended perfectly when he heard a train whistle as we left dinner. We chased down a Union Pacific.
We've read up to the marriage of Lucy Manette and Charles Darnay in Tale of Two Cities.
All is good!
Thursday, June 10, 2010
Towards Alaska - Day One
Last night Brett & Molly Vianney hosted a heartwarming farewell party that included almost all the members of the English department, their spouses, and their babies. So nice!
This morning we left Suffield at 5:15 AM.
After driving interstates forever, we cut into central Ohio. The town centers consist of lovely blocks from the 1800s, and, of course, there are plenty of trains. Bellevue has a large collection of engines and odd sorts of things like cranes.
We're spending the night in Fostoria, a former glass center and constant train hub.
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