'Ksan people have collected 15 totem poles in their village near Hazelton. The carved figures seem to emerge from the wood. See the peaks behind? We saw different sorts of woods, fields, and plains today, usually with Wordsworthian peaks overshadowing and following us. Prince Rupert -- which I'd dreaded because of its dreary appearance & our awful motel back in 2001 -- has closed the papermill and has brightened up. We watched 7 bald eagles and a seal check out possible dinner as fishermen cleaned their day's catch. Tomorrow we catch an overnight ferry.
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